Gasping for Air in Gaspe

Gaspe, Quebec is a seaside village on the edge of the ocean. Except is is not an ocean nor a sea, just looks and feels like one – it is a humongous river! The ocean like scenery is really a very large river and gulf converging at the point of Gaspe. Both bearing the same name – the Saint Laurent River and Gulf of Saint Laurent.

The Saint Laurent is a river with ocean personalities. There is fog in the mornings giving way to sunshine later in the day. There are seagulls soaring overhead and so many boulders sitting in a bed of seaweed. I see driftwood, crab shells and sea shells.  There are white caps riding high on almost every wave. I sighed more than once. Even homesick for an instance.  It was the air, that pushed me over the edge. The sounds and scents was close to home – so west coast.

Haldimand Camp Saint Laurent River

I finally settled into a small little campground in Haldemand, which is just 8 kilometres outside of Gaspe on the shores of Gaspe Bay. The hosts were great, nice people.

On my arrival I was a tad exhausted from my drive so the next day I took it easy roaming around the campground and village snooping around. I began with a walk along the shoreline near the campground and a bike trail which connects to Gaspe.  The canoe launch in the campground was a  photo moment. So, I took one of moi with the river. I still cannot believe I on the eastern tip of Quebec! Somebody pinch me.

I soon was re-energized and raring to go so I headed into the village.  The main street in the village is lined with patios and boutiques. Down the road is a mall. And up the hill is a smaller mall.

But what catches your eye are the pastel color stores on the main drag.  It is the focus point of the waterfront. You cannot help but look. They are just as effective as a flashing neon light. And allot more classier.

Downtown Gaspe

Next I drove out to THE beach in Gaspe called Hildemand Beach.  Beautiful white sand stretching for a long way.  At one end there are lifeguards, swimming area, volleyball nets, picnic shelters and viewing benches.  A short boardwalk path leads to the middle of the beach. From the middle of the beach the sand becomes your pathway. On this day it was windy. Few were out on the beach swimming but …

… many were busy kite surfing.  I just happen to have a Timmys, so I sat down on the beach and took it all in very slowly.  Man.. these people were good.

The next few days I spent doing what I love best – getting down and dirty doing some hiking in the wilderness.

Next to Gaspe is Forillon National Park. In the park are some wicked cliffs, hiking trails and sandy beaches.  One of the trails I wanted to check out was called the Les Graves Trail. It leads to a lighthouse and viewpoint looking out over cliffs. It was a 7 kilometre there and back trail.  It is also part of the Appalachian Heritage  Trail.

Kite Surfing Haldimand Beach

On my trip to the lighthouse I continued past the beacon to the lookout deck further down the side of the cliffs. When I got there the views were fabulous but I was disappointed that you could not access the beach.

This concerned me especially being so close to the prize. It was made worst by having to watch some kayakers on the beach enjoying themselves.

I went Sherlock Holmes and soon found, after closer observation, a faint trail leading down the side of the lookout and down the embankment to the beach. Ha! I was not too sure if I was allowed.. but I could not just stand by and watch the kayakers take it all in by themselves.

The beach was so worth it.  The privacy was golden. I laid out on a huge rock and let the sunshine and winds pummel me with everything they had. I looked up and there were cliffs towering over me and around me.  When I did wander the beach the pebbles crackled under my every step.  I went from baseball cap to toque because the wind  was so swift.

Les Graves Trail

One of the other trails I explored in Forillon Park was the 6 kilometre trail (Mount Alban) leading to a lookout. I figured much of the trail would be uphill, but it turns out the whole 3 kilometrtes to the lookout was uphill and the 3 kilometres back was downhill.

It was a work out and sweat fest.  During the hike I could hear the thunder closing in on me. In the distance were some pretty black clouds.  So I had to double time as fast as I could uphill before the storm hit.  I was gasping for air in Gaspe.

When I got to the lookout… it was OK but the fog had rolled in on me.  The thunder in the dustance was getting louder. Even though I had rain gear I still would prefer not togo down a steep mountain in the rain because then everything becomes slippery. I needed to get back before the rain.. double time downhill and back to camp I scurried.