Recently we have felt allot like the first early European explorers, First Nation people and Vikings when they first set foot on the island of Newfoundland. It was a new land to discover for them, and for us too. The first steps on Newfoundland sent chills down our spines and goose bumps racing up our arms. We were like a couple of kids, hyped up on sugar, lost in an amusement park.. so eager to touch, hear and see everything.
There was no time to waste so we set sail across the Atlantic Ocean as early as we could so we could have the next day to explore the island. It worked out to be the 1 AM ferry that took us from the province of Nova Scotia to the province of Newfoundland. The route took about 6-8 hours. During the voyage we cat-napped, called each other names, planned our routes, snooped around, people watched and cat-napped again.
It was 8 o’clock in the morning when we arrived in the Village of Port aux Basques on Newfoundland. The small ferry terminal and village are located on the bottom westcoast corner of the province. Our engines were running. The adrenaline topped up. It was go time!
The morning hours were dark. A hanging black cloud hung over our heads and in front of us was a misty fog. It did not take long for the rain to join the party. Recently, summer has taken a nap for some reason and we have been enjoying the fifth season in Canada called “sprall”. It is a mix of SPRing and fALL missing out on summer. The weather this year has been an anomaly across the country… and throughout the world. Something is not right with the environment?
Anywho… try to always make the best of every situation. We are lucky that way in Canada… why… well because we have four seasons (sometimes five) and each season provides a new landscape to play in with a different set of toys for adventures. Who would not like that? In Canada all seasons, no matter what the weather brings, provides limitless photo opportunities and wild adventures when your eyes and mind are kept open – blinders are always off when in Canada.
Rose Blanche Lighthouse and EH Tourism
In Port-aux- Basques we walked the small village in the rain, poking around corners, taking pictures of boats, museums and pastel hilltop homes before heading east to visit the Rose Blanche Lighthouse located at the end of Hwy #470. Our first destination in Newfoundland was going to be a historic lighthouse. Go figure.
Bro and I, both, were excited about visiting the lighthouse. We have crossed the country visiting many lighthouses and this one was going to be special. Reports indicated that the Rose Blanche Lighthouse is one of the last accessible granite stone lighthouses on the Atlantic Coast. It was first erected in 1873 and today it is a museum with an interpretive guide and walking trails providing views of the Atlantic Coastline.
From the lighthouse we backtracked along Hwy# 470 back to Port-aux-Basques so to begin our travels north towards the Gros Morne National Park and L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Park. The two parks are easily our most anticipated stops along the west coast of Newfoundland.
Sunglass Falls and Bro
But something great happened along the way to the lighthouse which we had to do first. On the way to the lighthouse we spotted a waterfall crashing down the side of a mountain. There was no mention of the falls in any of our research? But there it was? It was large, powerful and beautiful… so how can that be – no mention?
We “Sherlock Holmes” the area and soon figured out that the pull-out down the highway was accessing a boardwalk trail. The trail and parking lot were not marked or signed with any information or maps. It was a mystery trail. On all accounts the boardwalk trail zigged and zagged across the grassy rocks and wetland marsh leading to the base of the falls. An adventure we could not pass up so we took to the trail to see what the prize would be at the end of the tunnel. Why not?
The boardwalk trail started out great but soon the trail showed its age – the boards were beaten down by the elements, many were missing and broken in two. There were sections of the trail missing therefore forcing us to jump mud puddles and walk tight-rope along fallen boards. Persistence paid off because at the end of the trail the towering chutes of the falls were crashing down at are feet. It was a moment.
Leaving the waterfall I realized I lost my sunglasses. That would be the third pair lost this year already to adventure. In celebration of the lost we decided to name the falls Sunglass Falls since we did not know its name. If tourism does not want to name the falls… we will. It is a lost opportunity to develop the region by piggy-backing the waterfall with the lighthouse therefore giving people more reason to explore the region. During our visit 2 other groups visited the falls. Later on we found out that the falls were called the Bearchois Falls. I still like Sunglasses Falls better.
Bro and the Beach at end of Smokey Cape Trail
As we began to travel west from Port-aux-Basques we mapped out the main destinations to visit – starting with the J.T. Cheeseman Provincial Park. From the day use area in the park we explored along the 2 kilometre one-way Smokey Cape Trail. The trail crawled along boulders, grassland fields and up and down stairs leading back and forth across boardwalks. The prize at the end of the trail was a beautiful white sandy beach. It was our first beach on Newfoundland… a deep sigh soon followed. We enjoyed the beach in silience.
We found out later that a gravel road in the park would of taken us to the beach by vehicle. But what is the fun in that. We would of missed the light breeze and salt fumes perfuming from the ocean and the far reaching ocean views, fields of wildflowers and the smattering of giant rocky boulders if we did not take the trail. We would of missed the refreshing cleanliness of the rain drops covering the landscape in a wet shine just like a polish does furniture. Short cuts, as in life and in adventure, do not often reward the end user. Road.. no thanks?
Codroy Beach
Next we visited the Codroy Provincial Park near Grand Bay, Newfoundland. A side road took our caravan to the remote beaches of the park. Not a soul in sight as we pulled into the day use area. Across the road was an access path leading over the grassy dunes to the beach. Bro and I took the time to savor the moment and walked the beach embracing the winds, rain and crashing waves.
There was no end to the smiles on our faces on this day as nature and the sites we visited entertained and made an impression on us. It was a long day fueled by information overload and deprived of sleep. We shall sleep well tonight and the dreams will be a vivid.